Too much plastic, not enough coffee

Your new favourite movie is from the Philippines

Hello friends!

Holy smokes, this is a long one. Clear your Pocket and your Netflix watch list there’s too much brilliant work coming out of Asean to bother with anywhere else.

I really enjoy doing this longs one because I get to be even more chatty than usual and it’s fun, but I might be pushing it this week. Blame it on the end-of-year taking stock of life vibe. It’s also very Philippines heavy which is a pleasant surprise.

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See you next week,Erin Cook

🇵🇭 Dead Kids (Netflix)

I watched Dead Kids on Netflix this week. It’s the first-ever Filipino original produced by the platform and that alone should be enough to get you to watch — do your part in viewing numbers so we get more great content from around the place! Director Mikhail Red told the Inquirer he deliberately set out to make a barkada (great word) film that would also appeal to international audiences. I think he’s nailed it. It’s deeply Filipino, exploring class and a darkly funny look at crime. The narco-politician is also called Uncle Rody, so make of that what you will. Truly, watch it this Sunday and tell me what you think! 

🇲🇲 How Hare Krishna came to Myanmar (Frontier Myanmar)

I am OBSESSED with this one. I don’t usually make a point of dropping links all over WhatsApp prior to publishing a newsletter, but this is so fascinating to me I spread it around. In Myanmar, Hindus are a tiny minority and the Hare Krishna movement is even smaller. This one looks at the improbable arrival of the sect in Myanmar and where it currently stands. Just read it, okay?

Das estimates that Myitkyina has up to 400 Hare Krishna followers, making it the largest of the movement’s communities in Myanmar. Waingmaw Township, across the Ayeyarwady River from the state capital, has some followers among the township’s Gurkha community, which was estimated at 15,000 in 2016.

There are twelve brahmachari living at the Hare Krishna temple in Myitkyina, many of whom are from other parts of the country. They include Sana Thanda Ram, 19, who moved to Myitkyina in 2010 after hearing a visiting brahmachari speak in Aung Lan, his hometown in Magway Region. His daily activities include chanting, studying and helping with communal cooking.

🇮🇩 The curse of es kopi susu (Singalong)

Indonesia has been ascending to its rightful place on the throne of best coffee culture for a while now and everyone is taking notice. Personally, I love it. But I do have a pang of guilt every time I order! I got one of those reusable Starbucks cups and I keep on to all the Fore cups but now I have a huge stack of them and have no idea what to do about it. Maybe I’ll grow herbs or something in them, go full early-thirties. I love this one from Friend of the Letter Julia Winterflood exploring what options are out there to reduce plastic consumption while still keeping the industry flourishing.

So what are the alternatives for producers and consumers? I put the question to Andre Dananjaya, Line Producer of Pulau Plastik (Plastic Island), a collaborative campaign tackling the issue of single-use plastic in Bali and beyond. Pulau Plastik leverages popular culture through social media campaigns, short videos, and a feature-length documentary to increase awareness about the hazards of single-use plastic, change people’s behavior, and advocate for change.

“One of the most effective methods for coffee outlets to reduce waste is to offer incentives to customers who bring their own tumbler,” Andre contends. “But make sure it’s clean so baristas don’t have to do that for you,” he adds. “Another incentive could be a reward for customers who return their plastic cups, which can then be brought to a waste bank or recycling center.”

I always enjoy a nice thinkpiece about religion, especially Catholicism in the Philippines. This one from Shaun Silagan, a missionary, on how the Philippines’ leaders fail to meet their own religious standards through weak leadership and corruption is sweet. This is probably my fave op-ed sub-genre. 

As an altar server, I had to be very careful of my actions lest I be reprimanded or laughed at by our leader. I had to be obedient to my parents if I wanted to please God. Sticking to the rules defined my faith.

I know something was fundamentally missing with that kind of faith, but that was how I was taught. Growing up and slowly realizing the limitations of my image of God, I had to unlearn many things from my childhood for me to be able to embrace God's love.

This isn’t an Asean-specific story, but does look at dengue research from Indonesia which is very compelling! Will we one day be able to stop the transmission of certain strains of dengue? Maybe, but it is much, much harder outside of the lab. 

The problem in the real world is that other people and other mosquitoes keep migrating into the areas being treated, messing up the experiments. But from a theoretical perspective Simmons sees Wolbachia as potentially a way to wipe out dengue entirely.

"If you had a big island," he proposes, "[and] you stop people from moving in and out of that island, and you put Wolbachia across all the mosquitoes on that island, the science suggests that you'll eliminate dengue in that location."

It’s the Randy Mulyanto show again! I love this one. Yun-Chan Liao and Chang Cheng are Taiwanese journalists with a beautiful side project. They run the Brilliant Time bookshop in New Taipei City, which is, as Randy says, more like a library for Southeast Asian migrant workers to borrow books in their own languages. 

Chang has a simple hope. If Taiwanese people understand Indonesia, the Philippines, Vietnam, and Thailand more, they will treat the migrant workers on the basis of friendliness and equality. Brilliant Time now employs three staff members and rents a three-storey building in New Taipei City, instead of Taiwan’s capital of Taipei, in order to keep down operating expenses and commuting time. Chang and Liao fund the store from their own pocket, along with some donations.

“We hope Taiwanese people know there is a bookstore and the books inside are written in Bahasa Indonesia, in Thai, and the Taiwanese people would be surprised,” he says. Understanding grows from knowledge, as both he and Liao chant together.

This is a stunner from Reuters. The text looks at the rising sea levels in Manila (a horrendously common story lately!), but the photos are something else. Definitely recommend opening this one on the desktop instead for the full experience.

Martinez remembers that their village wasn't always like this. She recalls basketball tournaments and grand feasts that their community once held, so popular that visitors from nearby towns would flock to watch performances, and celebrate mass at the church.

The court is now fully submerged, and the church that was once filled with devotees is stained with moss.

I raved about this one on Twitter but I’ll do it again here. I think that Filipinos expat workers have for so long been the engine of industry in the region and further afield it’s almost seen as a fact of life rarely worth investigating. This one, along with the photos, does a brilliant job of just a snapshot into what life is really like for men who spend so much of their life working in shipping.

Still, Arnulfo Abad, 51, the engine-room fitter, who has spent most of the last three decades on cargo ships, said he was grateful for the work. “The sea gave me my life,” he said.

The men on the ship are the sons of fishermen, carpenters and rice farmers. To be an officer — which most men aspire to — requires a college degree. Some who graduated paid for those degrees on the earnings from backyard piggeries, or made their pocket money selling Popsicles on the street.

They left behind lives in provincial villages where they could expect to make $100 a month. They earn 10 times that amount, often more, at sea.

🇸🇬 Singapore Isn’t The Next Hong Kong (Foreign Policy)

Kirsten Han does a lot of things really well, but my favourite is always when she’s dispelling misguided comparisons between Singapore and elsewhere. Hong Kong is the take de jour at the moment, but it doesn’t really make sense. She looks at it domestically, but I do want to note that nothing grinds my dang gears lately like us foreign-types who miss the fundamental difference between Singapore and Hong Kong (and no doubt soon, Taiwan): Singapore is a freaking sovereign state! Just because it’s majority ethnically Chinese and comparatively small in size the existential threat of becoming a province one day doesn’t work! Okay, that was a side tangent, but do read Kirsten’s piece. 

But Singapore’s elite have other concerns. A senior official told the Financial Times that the PAP government “is terrified that something similar could happen in Singapore,” and that contingency plans are being crafted in case Singaporeans get ideas.

Contingency plans are fine, but it’s a bizarre fear. While some Singaporeans might be sympathetic to Hong Kongers’ aspirations for universal suffrage and civil and political rights, it’s highly unlikely that the heat of Hong Kong’s summer of dissent will spread to the city-state.

🇮🇩 ‘Don't let us fight by ourselves’ (The Jakarta Post)

A good pal of mine is very involved with the activist side of Indonesia’s legal reforms to the sexual violence bill. Through Instagram, she has taught me (and probably dozens of others!) just how vital this fight is and how dire gender-based violence is in the country. I saw her the night it was shelved in parliament and I’ve never seen her like that before, just so totally dejected. It’s easy to read the dot points in the daily reporting of what the bill will cover or the hideous arguments made against it, but talking with my friend and this story here really drives it home. Please read it, and do so on a desktop because the Jakarta Post is experimenting a little with web publishing and it works really nicely for this piece. 

They wanted people and lawmakers to care about the bill like they did. In September, nearing the end of the term of the previous House lawmakers, they pitched in some money to buy large flower boards for lawmakers. One of the boards said, “Pak and Bu lawmakers, 10,000 people have fallen victim to sexual violence while the bill has been deliberated. Pass the bill.”

In the end, the lawmakers did not pass the bill as they ended their term on Sept. 30. Some did not agree to some of the articles and argued that the bill would encourage free sex and LGBT sex.

Indhira did not understand these arguments. To her, this bill is crucial to prevent other people from what she and her youngest daughter had suffered for years.

One thing that got me about Manila was the bluntest of political street art. In Jakarta, it’s often stencilled portraits of Munir or, lately, comparing the House of Representatives to a couple of slang words I best not repeat. I spotted a Najib Razak clown made by Fahmi Reza once from a train in KL, which was very fleeting but felt special! The day before the election in Bangkok this year I walked down some street and someone had spraypainted ‘RIP COUP’ on an electricity box. I guess that’s pretty blunt too. But Manila! It was all ‘NEVER AGAIN MARTIAL LAW’ and ‘JOIN NPA’. Now Manila isn’t having it anymore and street artists are in big, big trouble. 

They had spray-painted the phrases “If Andres were still alive," "Abolish de facto martial law,” and "What is the leader’s answer to martial law?" in Filipino on posts in the LRT’s Recto Station in Manila.

They were later caught by the Manila Police District (MPD) for vandalism and allegedly “interfering in police duties.” The police claimed that one of the artists resisted arrest by pushing the arresting officer.

According to a statement from Panday Sining, the four artists were allegedly “manhandled and beaten while being dragged out of a jeepney by officers in plainclothes.”

Race relations in Singapore is a complicated thing to get my head around as a dilettante. The message to the world is, look at these HDB requirements, look at these public racial harmony campaigns. But it feels almost weekly there’s some sort of racialised spat going viral prompting conversation about what race really looks like in Singapore. I like this piece because it frames the perceived difference between ‘foreigners’ and ‘real’ Singaporeans, who counts and who gets to make those calls. 

“I think he’s a new citizen and I don’t think he blended in, he didn’t integrate well,” Goh said, echoing the views of most respondents in a survey by the Institute of Policy Studies research centre. Close to seven in 10 of 4,015 citizens and permanent residents polled thought immigrants were not doing enough to integrate into Singapore.

Trinity Joan, an administrator for a start-up, said the anger towards Erramalli was “not race-based” but rather about nationalism.

“We need to protect our own. If someone misbehaves and is not from our country, we need to have a sense of nationalism and say: ‘You disrespected a Singaporean, so you’re out’,” the 30-year-old said.

Red-tagging is a nasty practice in the Philippines. ‘Enemies’ of the state are deemed to be connected to the extraordinarily long-running communist insurgency, which puts the target at risk of vigilantes or law enforcement. A group of performers from Teatro Obrero, part of the National Federation of Sugar Workers, have been accused of being sympathetic to the cause and the subject of a raid late October in Negros Occidental. It’s part of a wider war on land rights and activist. 

The arrests underscore a heightened sense of fear and paranoia in Negros, where activists regularly report receiving anonymous threats, being followed by unidentified men and subjected to police or military “visits”.

A number of Teatro Obrero members said their families continue to receive such “visits” and that they are afraid of returning home – a tactic that Clarizza Singson, chair of the Negros chapter of Philippine rights group Karapatan, described as a possible attempt to “force them to testify” against other detainees.

I used to loooove weird museums, but the dang Forensic Medicine one in Bangkok really ruined that for me and I haven’t been to anything but Nationals ever since. I think I will have to swing by the Patpong Museum though. Patpong has quite the reputation but I had no idea about all this CIA mess back in the day. There’s a little section about Bowie’s time in the city which has reminded me that I’ve recently read some old Capote AND Hunter S, both of whom slander the hell out of Bangkok without explaining why. Please chuck a comment down the bottom if you have any info on that! 

Through interactive exhibitions, artifacts and recreated spaces; the museum captures seven decades of known and secret history, from Patpong’s origins, to the American spooks plotting coups in its safehouses, its days as a corporate crossroads and emergence as one of the world’s most notorious red-light districts. 

“Everybody knows Patpong, but they don’t really know the stories behind Patpong,” said Michael Messner, the Austrian founder who several weeks ago achieved his long-held dream of opening the museum.

A few months ago after a wedding in Ubud we zoomed down to Denpasar and at some point between A and B I spotted some scrawled bright blue graffiti on a wall in a carpark that translates to something like ‘Bali’s water is for Bali, so why do the tourists take it?’ This is a complicated situation, but I’m not sure I knew how dire until I read this. Friend of the Letter and brilliant environmental journalist Basten Gokkon noted on Twitter that this is something that really needs to be noticed at a national level amid the dramatic plan to establish ‘10 new Balis.’ 

Vibeke Lengkong of I'm an Angel, a local charity that provides water aid to villages in drought-stricken parts of Bali, said the authorities had exacerbated the crisis.

"The government has built pipelines to divert water up there from the central lakes, but there's no water flowing in the pipes because of a lack of funding and corruption that impacts every level of government in Bali," she said.

"They talk about providing the basic needs of the people, but then they go and sell huge amounts of water to companies like Coca-Cola and Danone-AQUA that have big factories in Bali."

Lengkong estimates that the average tourist uses between 2,000 and 4,000 litres (528 - 1,057 gallons) of water a day, a figure based on daily water use in luxurious resorts and villas, as well as for swimming pools, gardens and golf courses and building ever more tourist infrastructure.

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